For Harrods, the world-class department store, backtrack south (right, facing B&H) along Old Bond Street to Piccadilly, turn right to the Green Park Underground (not "subway," as Brits think that's a below-street-level pedestrian crossing - ask for the "tube" station if necessary), and take the train two stops to Knightsbridge. Harrods is one block past the station. Or cross Piccadilly and take a cab or bus in front of the Ritz Hotel to Harrods. (At Bond Street, Piccadilly goes one way, in the "wrong" direction).Both Harrods and Selfridges have similar selections, as they are both Fox-managed concessions, but with a difference. Harrods draws an international clientele, and has a bit more of the up-market, high-end pipe stock. Selfridges has more home market trade, with the appropriate differences in merchandise and price range. Both have excellent selections of all the major brands. You can't go wrong at either.
Three other excellent smokeshops in London are Shervingtons, on High Holborn, and G. Smith and Sons, on Charing Cross Road - ah, those wonderful names so redolent of Holmes and Watson riding in a Hansom when "the game is afoot." G. Smith has a particularly good selection of Ashtons and Upshalls. Shervington is good for Peterson, Comoy, and GBD. In the "City," London's "Wall Street," try Walter Thurgood, at London Wall (the real one!). When the game afoot is a pipe, leave no door unopened.
PART TWO: YOUR OWN SPECIFICATIONS
For this writer, a truly fun activity is to go directly to the craftsman who makes pipes and ask him to do up a special order. This presupposes that you really can't find what you want "off the rack," because having a pipe made is especially time-intensive.
In the St. James's district, one of the all-time fine pipernakers is Dennis Marshall, who was a master carver for Charatan in the old days, before starting his own line, Miliville, along with his son, John. Millvilles are ringers for the old Charatans, and the Marshalls do first-rate work at a small workshop in Hertfordshire, but sell from a stall in the St. James's churchyard on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. To get there from Dunhill, walk right (facing Dunhill) along Jermyn Street less than a block, to the entrance to St. James's Church. Enter the church vestibule and continue on through to the other entrance in a courtyard facing Piccadilly, where you'll find one of the Marshalls in the stall. There is a lot to choose from ready-made, but if you tell them you want this pipe with that finish and such and such a mouthpiece or band, or whatever, they'll make it and send it, or with cajoling, have it for you the following week. Ordinary pipes start at 10 to about 50 pounds ($16 to $82) in standard shapes (one of London's real bargains), and freehands continue from there on up into the hundreds. But these guys are good, and will work with you to get what you want.
Bill Taylor of Ashton, Moty Ezrati and Barry Jones of Upshall, Les Wood of Ferndown, and Colin Fromm and Colin Leeson of Invicta will also custom fit or custom-make pipes for those who will journey to see them. A great experience, to say the least.
Ashton needs no introduction, as it is one of the best pipes in the world, and Bill Taylor, who worked his way up through the Dunhill ranks until he went out on his own in the early'80s, makes pipes that are sought after by connoisseurs. Despite all his success, Bill is easy going, loves a joke and a pint, and will take the time to pick you up at the train station in Romford, Essex, a 35-minute ride east from central London. Driving is not recommended, as the London traffic makes this relatively short jaunt a 2-3 hour car ride. (London traffic is worse than NY, LA, Chicago, or Boston at their worst!)
The best plan with Bill is to hop a morning train, and first look through his bins of ready cut bowls. If you can find one you like, he or one of his assistants will stain and finish the bowl and cut a mouthpiece on the spot, while you watch. You specify the color, test the mouthpiece with your teeth for finer tuning, and can even say no if you don't like the outcome. Don't worry, it'll become someone else's favorite Ashton.
If you want something special, a "bespoke" pipe made exclusively for you, it's best to arrive with a model in mind, or a pipe you want copied, or a drawing of what you want. Bill will select the briar block(s) with you and will send the finished pipe in a few weeks. He's done the same for yours truly many times, and always gets it right. Costs run from 68 to 70 pounds ($112 - $279), depending on the size of the briar block. Silver fittings can add 5 to 50 pounds ($25 - $82), plus the time to send them to the silversmith. I usually get two in the same shape - one smooth, one sandblasted - as I always carry (at least) a brace of pipes, and like the idea of the different finishes for day and evening, indoor or out, or just plain alternation.
Moty Ezrati at Upshall will do the same thing, except he is not a pipemaker - Barry Jones does that. Upshall is located in the opposite direction (west) in a village called Tilshead, not far from Salisbury and almost within view of Stonehenge. Call Moty for an appointment and you either drive (it's more direct and less strenuous in this direction, with beautiful Countryside around Tilshead, as well as Stonehenge and Salisbury Cathedral to enjoy) or you take an hour train ride to Salisbury and they'll pick you up.
A grade "P" Upshall straight grain will cost from 150 to 250 pounds ($246 - $410), depending on size, if it's bespoke; up to one-third less if you find a bowl Barry Jones has already cut so he just has to finish and fit. Grades B, G, and E can cost more, up to 1500 pounds ($2460). Pricey, yes, but these are some of the best briars in the world and, just as with a bespoke suit made for you on Savile Row, you pay for the individual and exclusive tailoring. It's one of a kind in every respect.
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